Simply put, the 114-mile drive from the picturesque Austrian city of Villach to the harbor town of Grado, Italy — by way of the Soča River Valley in Slovenia — is a photographer’s grail, especially if the itinerary is set by a master photographer.
I made the journey in the fall of 2023 with one such escort, my Berliner friend Thomas, whose photo stops started at Italy’s Predil Lake and Predil Pass Battery in the Alps; passed through the Slovenian villages of Bovec, Kanal, Dobrovo, and Medana in mountain and wine country; and ended at Southern Italy’s Palmanova, Aquileia, and Grado on the Adriatic Sea.
The region’s imagery and history left me in awe.
Lake Predil and the Area Natura Raibl lie at an altitude of 3,179 feet in the foothills of the Julian Alps, where Austria, Italy, and Slovenia meet.
Also known as Lake Raibl, its stream-fed, blue-green Alpine waters cover an ancient glacial basin in the limestone mountain ranges of Eastern and Central Europe. Featuring a scenic, nearly half-mile surface, Predil – aka Lake Raibl – is the second largest lake in Italy’s Friuli-Venezia Giulia region and is a popular attraction for swimmers, hikers, and other recreationists.
Reflections have been a staple of my photographic body of work since the 1970s, and the near-perfect fall day of our drive satisfied my creative appetites perfectly.
The Predil Pass Battery occupies a militarily strategic location a quarter mile east of Predil Lake on the Alpine pass of the same name. It’s still in Italy but sits just another quarter mile west of the Slovenian border.
The battery was constructed by the Austro-Hungarian Empire between 1895 and 1897 to protect its southern Italian border along the valley below. For defensive purposes, the installation was moved inside the mountain in 1915.
While the old fort was bombed during World War II, it’s still standing and remains easily accessible to visitors. The valley vista is spectacular.
French just happened to be the language overheard while lunching in the Slovenian town of Bovec. But on any given day, the tongue du jour could have been from any region in the world.
Located on the eastern edge of Triglav National Park, which abuts the Italian border, Bovec is the nation’s outdoor adventure capital, boasting a range of activities, including swimming, whitewater rafting, kayaking, ziplining, canyoning, and hydrospeeding. Triglav is the only national park in Slovenia and is named after the country’s highest mountain peak of the same name, which reaches 9,395 feet.
The town is located on the park’s southwestern edge in the Upper Soča River Valley.
Running 450 rugged miles from its source in Slovenia’s Triglav National Park, the Soča River is known as the Emerald Road due to its spectacular color year round.
The water is particularly wild in its upper reaches around Bovec, Kobarid, and Tolmin, which attracts legions of outdoor fanatics, from steady photographers like Thomas and me to adrenaline-fueled whitewater rafters and hydrospeeders. More than 30 adventure operators are located in the valley.
The Soča crosses the Italian border at the Slovenian village of Solkan before emptying into the Adriatic Sea at the Gulf of Trieste.
Located on the left-bank of the Soča River, the Slovenian village of Kanal’s history dates to the Middle Ages – 1140 AD to be exact – and its iconic, two-arch bridge has served as an important river crossing since its predecessor was bombed during World War I.
Among the town’s historic attractions are a Gothic-style Diocese of Koper church built in the 1430s. Dedicated to the Assumption of Mary, the structure was remodeled in the Seventeenth Century with Baroque stylings and again in the Eighteenth Century with Neoclassical additions.
Just across the bridge stands the Neptune’s Fountain, which was erected in 1815 and moved across the street to its current location in 1937. The literal watering hole originally served utilitarian and social functions, as local women would gather there to share news and collect water in wooden pails.
While Europe hadn’t ever made my bucket list, Slovenia wasn’t even on my basement list. In fact, I knew nothing of the place whatsoever, including the fact that it borders Italy from the Alps to the Adriatic, let alone that the two countries share a wine region.
Our lunch and vino stop at Dobrovo and final Slovenian photo stops at the villages Medana and Smartno perfectly capped the most unexpected pleasure of my three-week journey through Austria, Italy, Slovenia, and Spain.
The wine, lasagna, and scenery were perfect.
Founded in the 1593, the Italian village of Palmanova is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and a classic example of a Star Fort, aka a Bastion Fort, which is characterized by a star-shaped design.
The fortress’s nine-pointed star formation enhanced its defense against the Turks and other Late Renaissance invaders. The village was surrounded by walls and a moat and had only three entrances, which were protected by guarded gates.
Palmova’s is the only remaining example of the nine-point Star Fort.
The village of Aquileia on the Natisone River was founded as a Roman military colony in 181 BC and evolved into one of the empire’s wealthiest and most important cities.
Located six miles from the Adriatic, Aquileia is one of the world’s most significant archaeological sites, featuring Roman ruins, an under-excavation Roman road, and the 314 AD Patriarchal Basilica of Aquileia, another UNESCO World Heritage Site that features a magnificent mosaic floor, frescos, and an underground crypt.
Before being conquered and sacked by Attila the Hun in 452 AD, Aquileia reached a population of 100,000.
By the time we reached the island of Grado, I was pretty spent. I had flown six hours against the time clock to Europe, which meant it was late night in my mind and body.
A once-important fishing village on the Italian Adriatic, Grado today has become a tourist attraction, with two large beaches situated between Trieste to the west and Venice to the southeast, popularly known as the Island of the Sun.
Known as a spa town since the early 19th Century when doctors used aqua therapy to treat children, Grado features dozens of spa hotels, alongside shops, restaurants, and other tourist-oriented business.
We just strolled along some fishing docks before heading back toward Villach.
Project: Retirement Travel Trifecta
